- Where
- Dawki and Shnongpdeng, West Jaintia Hills / East Khasi Hills
- Altitude
- About 40–100 m on the river
- Distance
- About 80 km from Shillong, 2–2.5 hours
- Timings
- Boating roughly 8am–4pm
- Entry fee
- Boat about ₹700–1,500 per boat in recent seasons; some 2026 reports higher
- Permit
- None (Indian side)
- Best time
- November–March for clear water
- Time needed
- Half a day; overnight at Shnongpdeng
The Umngot river flows out of the Khasi and Jaintia hills at Dawki, on the border with Bangladesh. In the dry season the water is so clear that photos of the boats look as if they float on air, and that picture made Dawki one of Meghalaya's best-known sights.
When is the water clear?
This is the most important question, and the answer is the dry season.
- November–March: clearest, often glass-like; the classic photos are from these months.
- April and October: usually good, with a few cloudy days after rain.
- June–September: monsoon; the river is fast, brown and boating is often stopped.
The ten-year rain record for the site (below) shows why: rain falls almost entirely between May and September.
What happened to the river in 2025
In late 2025 the Umngot stayed murky well after the monsoon, when it would normally have cleared by mid-October. Reports linked the silt to work on the Shillong–Dawki road upgrade. The Meghalaya pollution control board found construction waste being dumped into tributaries and fined the road agency ₹15 lakh. Boating continued, and claims that Dawki would close for years were false. Ask your driver or boatman about the current clarity before planning a trip around it. Our Dawki clear water season guide is updated as we hear.
Dawki or Shnongpdeng?
- Dawki is the border town with the 1932 suspension bridge and the busiest boating point.
- Shnongpdeng, about 7–8 km upstream, is quieter, with clearer water, camping, cliff jumping, snorkelling and kayaking. If you stay a night, stay here.
Boating prices
Boats are hired per boat, not per person, and paid in cash. Recent guides give about ₹700–1,500 per boat for a 30–45 minute ride; a February 2026 report put some rides at ₹1,500–3,000. Life jackets are provided. Agree the price and duration before you get in.
How to reach Dawki
Dawki is about 80 km from Shillong, 2–2.5 hours by road. Most trips combine it with Mawlynnong, 30 minutes away, in a single day. See our Shillong to Dawki cab, Cherrapunji to Dawki route guide and Meghalaya tour packages.
| From | Road distance | Usual drive time |
|---|---|---|
| Shillong | about 80 km | 2–2.5 hrs |
| Sohra (Cherrapunji) | about 85 km | 2.5 hrs |
| Guwahati Airport | about 195 km | 4.5–5 hrs |
Road distances from OpenStreetMap routing. Drive times are what we see on these mountain roads, not map estimates.
Weather
| Month | Avg high | Avg low | Rain |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 23°C | 11°C | Dry |
| Feb | 26°C | 13°C | Dry |
| Mar | 29°C | 17°C | Light |
| Apr | 30°C | 20°C | Wet |
| May | 30°C | 22°C | Wet |
| Jun | 30°C | 25°C | Very wet |
| Jul | 31°C | 25°C | Very wet |
| Aug | 31°C | 25°C | Very wet |
| Sep | 31°C | 25°C | Wet |
| Oct | 30°C | 22°C | Light |
| Nov | 28°C | 16°C | Dry |
| Dec | 25°C | 13°C | Dry |
Monthly averages for 2015–2024 from ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo, at the site's elevation (about 39 m). Rain and snow are rated relative to this location's own year.
Things most guides don't tell you
- Go before 10am. The light is best for the "floating boat" view, and the queue for boats is shortest.
- The border is right there. The white water downstream marks the unofficial border, and you'll see Bangladeshi visitors on the other bank. Don't cross the markers.
- Krang Suri falls is about 30 km away and makes a good add-on if you start early.
Nearby
- Mawlynnong Village, about 30 minutes away.
- Krang Suri Falls, about 30 km away.
- Things to do in Dawki.
Dawki and the Umngot River: questions travellers ask
When is the Dawki river clear?
From November to March. April and October are usually good too. In the monsoon the river is brown and boating is often stopped.
What is the boating price in Dawki?
Recent guides give about ₹700–1,500 per boat for a 30–45 minute ride, cash only. Some 2026 reports are higher, so agree the price first.
Why was the Umngot river muddy in 2025?
Reports linked the silt to construction on the Shillong–Dawki road. The state pollution board fined the road agency ₹15 lakh for dumping waste into tributaries.
Is Dawki closed?
No. Claims in 2025 that Dawki would close for years were false; boating continued.
Dawki or Shnongpdeng, which is better?
Shnongpdeng, 7–8 km upstream, is quieter with clearer water and more activities. Dawki is busier and has the old suspension bridge.
How far is Dawki from Shillong?
About 80 km, 2–2.5 hours by road.
Can you see Bangladesh from Dawki?
Yes. The river forms part of the border, and the Bangladesh side is visible downstream of the bridge.
Is Dawki safe for non-swimmers?
Yes, on a boat with a life jacket. Swimming and cliff jumping at Shnongpdeng are for confident swimmers with a guide.
Sources
- Wikipedia: Umngot River
- Tribune: why has the Umngot river turned murky
- NE Now: MSPCB fines NHIDCL ₹15 lakh for polluting Umngot
- News Arena: where boats float on air, the story of Dawki
- Wanderon: Dawki river boating
Timings and fees change. Check on the day, or ask us when you book.
