Laitlum Canyons

Where

Near Smit, East Khasi Hills

Altitude

About 1,700–1,800 m at the top

Distance

About 22–25 km from Shillong, 45 minutes–1 hour

Timings

Daylight; best at sunrise or sunset

Entry fee

Free or a small local fee (reports vary)

Permit

None

Best time

October–April

Time needed

1–2 hours; a full day to walk down to Rasong

Laitlum means "the end of the hills" in Khasi; some read it as "the end of the road". Both fit. The road from Shillong runs out on a grassy clifftop, and below it the plateau falls away into deep green gorges that stretch towards Bangladesh.

What to do

• Watch sunrise or sunset from the clifftop. On many mornings, mist fills the gorges below you.
• Walk the ridges along the edge for different angles over the canyon.
• Walk down to Rasong, a village at the bottom reached only on foot, by a long stone stairway of around 3,000 steps. Allow 3 to 4 hours there and back, and more for the climb out.
• Photograph the light. The gorges change colour by the minute in the hour before sunset.

How to reach Laitlum

Laitlum is about 22 to 25 km from Shillong via Smit, the last big village, 15 minutes before the canyon. There is no public bus to the top, so book a car. See car rental in Shillong and our top places to visit in Shillong.

Road distances from OpenStreetMap routing. Drive times are what we see on these mountain roads, not map estimates.

Sunset time by month

Calculated for the 15th of each month. Arrive 45 minutes earlier for the best light.

Weather and best time

At about 1,800 m, Laitlum is cool and often windy. The ten-year record shows dry, clear months from November to March and heavy rain from May to September, when cloud often hides the gorges.

Monthly averages for 2015–2024 from ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo, at the site's elevation (about 1715 m). Rain and snow are rated relative to this location's own year.

Safety

• The edges are unfenced. Stay well back from the drop, especially in mist or wind.
• Don't go down to Rasong late. The climb back takes longer than you think.
• Hire a local guide for the Rasong walk if you don't know the trail; Meghalaya Tourism recommends it.

Things most guides don't tell you

• Smit is worth a stop. It is the seat of the Khyrim Syiem (chief), and hosts the Nongkrem dance festival, usually in October or November.
• Bring water and snacks. There are only a few small stalls at the top.
• Weekday mornings are empty. Weekend afternoons draw crowds from Shillong.

A sunrise or sunset plan

• Sunrise: leave Shillong about 75 minutes before sunrise (see the table above). Mist often lies in the gorges for the first hour of light.
• Sunset: arrive an hour before sunset, walk the ridges, and leave as the light goes; the road back is narrow and unlit.
• Rasong walk: start by 9am, take a guide, and allow the whole day.

Combine it with

• Elephant Falls on the same side of town.
• Smit village, and the Nongkrem dance ground, on the way.
• Mawkdok Dympep valley viewpoint on the Sohra road if you're heading to Nohkalikai.

Who it suits

The clifftop is open grassland, easy for all ages. The walk to Rasong is a real trek with thousands of steps and only for the fit.

Nearby

• Elephant Falls.
• Nohkalikai Falls and the root bridges at Sohra.