Behdienkhlam Festival in Jowai: Dates, Rituals and How to See It
Behdienkhlam, the Pnar monsoon festival of Jowai in Meghalaya's Jaintia Hills: when it is held, what happens on each day, the rots and the Aitnar pool, and how to visit from Shillong.
Behdienkhlam is the most important festival of the Pnar (Jaintia) people, held each July in Jowai, the main town of Meghalaya's Jaintia Hills. Its name means driving away the plague: in the middle of the monsoon, the community chases away disease and evil spirits and prays for a good harvest. In 2026 it was held from 6 to 9 July. The 2027 dates are fixed by the Dolloi, the traditional head, and announced a few weeks ahead; expect early to mid July.
What happens during Behdienkhlam
- Beating the roofs: early in the festival, men and boys go from house to house tapping the roofs with bamboo poles to drive out evil spirits.
- The khnongs and rots: tall tree trunks (khnong) are brought in, and each locality builds a rot, a towering, brightly decorated bamboo and paper structure, which is carried through the town.
- The final day at Aitnar: the rots and khnongs are taken to the sacred pool of Aitnar. Men dance in the mud and water, and teams compete in datlawakor, a rough game played over a wooden ball in the mud, said to foretell the harvest.
Women do not join the rituals at the pool but play a central role in preparing offerings and food at home. The festival is held by followers of the traditional Niamtre faith, but all of Jowai turns out to watch.
How to get to Jowai
Jowai is about 64 km from Shillong, 1.5–2 hours by road on the Shillong–Silchar highway. Most visitors stay in Shillong and drive in for the final day; Jowai also has a handful of simple hotels. Guwahati airport is about 3 hours from Shillong. No permit is needed.
Tips for visitors
- It will rain. Wear shoes that can get muddy and bring a rain jacket or umbrella.
- Crowds at Aitnar are huge on the final afternoon. Arrive early and find a spot on higher ground around the pool.
- This is a religious festival. Keep out of the pool and ritual areas unless invited, and ask before photographing people.
- Monsoon roads can be slow from landslides. Leave Shillong early.
Combine it with the Jaintia Hills
The monsoon is the best season for waterfalls. Around Jowai are Krang Suri Falls, Phe Phe Falls, the Nartiang monoliths and the Thadlaskein lake. See also the other festivals of Meghalaya.
Frequently asked questions
When is Behdienkhlam celebrated?
Every July, after the sowing. In 2026 it ran from 6 to 9 July. The exact dates follow the traditional Pnar calendar and are announced a few weeks ahead.
Where is Behdienkhlam held?
Mainly in Jowai, West Jaintia Hills, with the final day at the Aitnar pool. Smaller celebrations take place in other Pnar villages.
Can tourists attend Behdienkhlam?
Yes. Visitors are welcome to watch the processions and the final day at Aitnar, as long as they stay respectful and keep out of the ritual areas.
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